Scalar models for water-waves problem: application to breaking wave.

      Аннотация: We give here a new class of scalar equations for the Water-Waves problem taking into account variable bottom topographies. Many variable depth KdV equations existing in the literature are recovered as particular cases. We also derive a new linear models for these new equations of same accuracy and we validate numerically these results. We study all these equations and we treat the phenomena of breaking wave.

Ключевые слова: Water waves, internal waves, KdV equations, topographic effects, Numerical Analysis, scalar equations, breaking waves.