Inner surf and swash zone hydrodynamics on a steep slope. Laboratory observations and numerical modeling

      Аннотация: Laboratory data of free surface elevations and fluid velocities were obtained using a laser-Doppler velocimeter for the case of a periodic wave plunging over an impermeable, 1:10 slope with a fixed bottom roughness. The measurements were conducted over 15 cross-shore locations from the outer surf zone to the swash zone with approximately 10 vertical points at each location, including the bottom boundary layer and some points above the trough level. Various hydrodynamic quantities, including the ensemble averaged turbulent kinetic energy and turbulence intensities, were estimated to better understand inner surf and swash zone hydrodynamics induced by strongly plunging waves. Numerical simulations of the inner surf and swash hydrodynamics were carried out using 1D (RBREAK2 and FUNWAVE1D), 2D (COBRAS) models.

Ключевые слова: sediment transport, turbulence, coastal engineering, Ocean Engineering, Wave Breaking, surf zone, Swash Zone